45 Days Ride along Dragon's Backbone: Kashgar to Lhasa

The first 250km to Yecheng (Karghilik in Uighur) go on smoothly on a good asphalt road, some smaller hills, but generally through the very dry or desert areas and patches of greenery, where some Uighur villages could be found. Since it is just the beginning, if you have not gotten used to the new exercise, we could only enjoy a short ride and take the vehicle for the rest.

Start the cycling tour from Yecheng County. Ride up gradually on the bituminous macadam against the flying sand for 62KM to get the Kekeya Village and then 10KM to Pusa (Bodhisattva) Village. The total distance is 74KM.

As Yecheng County lies on the border of northside of Mt. Kunlin and Tarim Basin, the surrounding area is always dry. Along the way, the landform transits from oasis to Gobi or desert. Between times, you may see the Danxia Landform. With a history of 70 years or so, the special landform is a floorboard of landscape type that developed from red terrestrial clastic rock and featured by bare red cliff. The rocks are connected to each other one by one or congregate together. As the light changes, they appear differently and thus became an object for some cameraman.

Ride to Kudi today, the bituminous macadam ends at milestone K93 and then stone roads start until reach milestone K100. After a 3KM's way, the serpentine pass wanders up to the mountain until reaches the milestone K111 at the 3240M-high Kudi Daban. Ride down for 15KM, you will get to the 127 High-way Keepers' House. There is an Army Service Station at milestone K130. Again, you will find the bituminous macadam at milestone K133. Get on the road and ride along the Su River.

After riding for 35KM, you will reach to the destination today- Kudi at milestone K160. To stay overnight, set up the camp around 127 High-way Keepers' House.

On the third day, you will ride from Kudi to 204 High-way Keepers' House, totally 46KM.

Pass the Border Checkpoint and ride up along the river valley. Once you pass the milestone 170, ways steeply sloped. Along the way, there are small and shallow glaciers. The bituminous macadam ends again at milestone K194 and spiral mountain roads start. Roads became flat and flat before reaching milestone 204. Then, ride on to reach the 204 High-way Keepers' House and stay overnight there. Due to the high altitude of 4200M of the 204 High-way Keepers' House and the great increase of the altitude, some people may come up with the problem of altitude sickness.

On the fourth day, you will ride 84KM to reach the Heka High-way Keepers' House via Mazha Army Service Station.

Ride along the long slope for about 11KM to reach the Mazha Daban marked by milestone 217. The Station has a higher altitude of 4800-5150m. Then, easily reach the Mazha Army Service Station marked by milestone 241 by declivity. Here, some small and simple restaurants and hostels can be found. Then, ride on the bumpy stone road to reach the milestone 275. Hard climbing with the bike will take you to the 3900M-high Heika High-way Keepers' House. If you want to make a phone call, satellite phone call is available here.

The schedule for today is to reach the 30-Mile Barracks which is 74KM away.

Starting from the Heka High-way Keepers' House, you will ride 2KM to reach milestone 292. Here, you will start climbing the 4930M-high Heika Daban at millestone 309. As you ascend, there are a lot of upgrade and spiral mountain roads. Heavy wind blows when you climb down the mountain. A section of the road has been washed off near to the milestone 234. You need to cross the river twice, but it's not too hard. After upgrading 500M from the milestone 344(the former 340 High-way Keepers House), you get into the windy valley. Ride on to reach the Saitula Post Site, then keep riding to the Kashikaer River. The bumpy detritus road along the River leads to the 30-Mile Barracks marked by the milestone 364.

Tip: The weather suddenly and greatly changes in the valley. Stay overnight at camp.

Ride up the river valley to reach milestone 410 and climb over the mountain from there. The roads are straight and comparatively flat. The milestone 425.5 marks Kangxiwa Daban which is 4250M-high. Ride down hard against the wind. When wading across two small rivers near to the interjection of Kangwaxi Revolutionary Martyrs Ceretery, you get to the destination today- the Kangxiwa High-way Keepers' House.

Tip: Sometimes, you may stay at the Kangxiwa High-way Keepers' House and even have meals there.

Getting onto the No. 219 Xijiang-Tibet Highway, you will see a bridge over a dried river bed. Pass it, you will need to ride up a sand slope and then turn to a depression of valley. The road is narrow and zigzagged upwards. Speeding up is impossible until reaching the 4200M-high Hongliutan marked by milestone 487 as there is a lot of sand on the road surface. Stay at camp for the night.

Tip: If it is cloudy and you still keep good stamina, you may hurry on with your journey to 509 High-way Keepers' House.

Ride upgrades the road to the abandoned 509 High-way Keeps' House at milestone 511.5. You may rest here for a while as energy will rapidly consumed in the following ride. Upgrade ends and downgrade begins at milestone 515. Upgrade again starts at milestone 525. Climb over the 5200M-high Qitai Daban at milestone 535.5. The downgrade extends to wasteland with buttes in the surrounding area. The road is easy to be ridden on with milestones set every 5KM but no High-way Keepers’ House.

On the way, you will see the beautiful Akesaiqin Lake. You may stop here hiking or picturing for a while. Then, ride on to get to the last stop in Xinjiang, the tianshuihai Army Service Station, which is the highest Station in China. It is expensive to stay overnight at the Army Service Station, so we suggest that you camp nearby.

Tip: The weather changes greatly and suddenly in the Tinashuijing area and many people got obvious altitude sickness here. According to some local people and soldiers, it is better to go on the journey and camp further.

Starting from the Tianshuihai (Sweet Water Sea) military depot, you are suggested to cycle for 96 kilometers to reach Sirengou (Death Gully) (672.5K).

Most part of this path is bumpy, you must get fully prepared. A gentle up slope trail extends along the valley and a lake seats at 660K; you need to proceed to 8 kilometers upgrading path and another 1 kilometer downgrading path to get to Sirengou (Death Gully) (5005m). The sunset is beautiful in Sirengou.

Note: The location name of 660K, 672.5K and other similar ones means the mileage carved on the milestone alone the Xinjiang - Tibet Highway.

Cycle along the lake for 7 to 8 kilometers and then get into a valley, abandon the original lake bank path, upgrade temperedly and downgrade to the side of lake. Stretch along the lake side, you will see a sign with "Welcome to Tibet". Then you need to climb up and get over Jieshandaban(715K) and please note that the latter part is quite steep.

After several up and down trail, you will reach Sumxi (732K). A military depot stands nearby; you might lodge there and camp on the roadside. Some Tibetan families also dots there, and you might ask for some hot water.

The uphill path will extend for 10 kilometers till the summit - Hongtudaban(5370m), which is the highest mountain along the Xinjiang - Tibet route.

The trail comes to wave along the mountainside. There is a deserted Highway keeper's house at 770K, and a Basin follows in the back. As lots of paths prolong ahead, you can go across the Basin easily. Turn left, cycle along the left side of the mountain and circumambulate around the mountain on the bumpy path until Domar (829K). The first Tibetan village lies here, and you will find room and board, military depot and plain infirmary there.

The route is generally similar to the last days. One kilometer gentle path lies in front of an annular ride of another mountain. 15 kilometers upgrading path and 15 kilometers more downgrading path, a bumpy road extends to a Saline. Continue an up and down road to 895K, then ride along the Bangong Lake until 905K.

You will meet Bangong Fish Restaurant, and taste the fresh and delicious fish. After a full meal, proceed to Rutok (Ritu) county by circumambulating a lake. Rutok is a small county, but has Net Bar. You can stay in the local hostel.

This route is full of frustration, as it has been repaired for a long time and you need to cross over plenty of rivers. Risum (Risong) county lies at 963K, 30 kilometers from Rutok, and it sells tent and other groceries. When you cycle for 73 kilometers, you will see a large river. Cross the river and ride for another 6 kilometers, you will see an isolated shepherd house and you can camp there in your tent.

Surmount a mountain (4735m) by 20 kilometers up slope trail and another 36 kilometers down slope trail to reach Trithapuri (Lion River, Shiquanhe) county. Trithapuri County is a relatively large county. There are lots of ATM of various banks.

The initial trail is even bituminous macadam sweeping for 14 kilometers and then you will climb up for 10 kilometers and reach Shazidaba. The piercing wind counteracts severely and you need to be well prepared for such terrible gust. Namru village lies at 1133K and two tea shops stand there.

Northwest from Trithapuri, in the middle of the canyon erosion landscape of the Sutlej River, lie the impressive ruins of Toling and Tsaparang - flourishing centers of the former Kingdom Guge.

Tsaparang, the oldest center of Guge Kingdom, disappeared in the middle of 17 Century. The Toling monastery, founded by Richen zangpo in the 10th century, was once Ngari's most important monastic complex, which is still important cultural heritage of Ngari. After fully exploring the ancient Guge Kingdom, drive back to Namru, prepare for the following riding.

When you march for 6 kilometers until 1139K, the bituminous macadam disappears. 4 kilometers uphill trail leads to another 5 kilometers downhill path, and the violent wind combining dusty sand blows blows from the opposite direction.

You will reach Jiangbu Village to have a cup of tea and take a short rest after 30 kilometers riding. The cycling becomes harder in the latter 30 kilometers, as the wavelike path gets together with mad gust. You might camp near the military depot.

Today's route still features as bumpy road with numerous undulations. You might stay in the Menshi Village. There are telephone and post office there.

Ride for 12 kilometers and you will climb on a small up slope, and around 23 kilometers more later, get over another slope and go through a river. Then proceed to Darchen (Taqin). This route is totally 64 kilometers today.

Darchen is the main gateway and the village in front of Mt. Kailash, and also the Point of Exit to the Sacred Mount Kailash (Kang Rimpoche) for the Kailash Pilgrimage Circuit (Kailash Kora). You can relax and rest and prepare for next days’ trekking. The guide will help you organize yaks or ponies for the Kailash circuit trek at Darchen. Overnight in Darchen.

Start the Kailash circuit today, this kora covers 53 kms and can be done in 3 days. We head west in clockwise direction. Only 4 kilometers from Darchen the trail climbs up over the southwest end of the ridge to reach a cairn (4,730m). Then, trail bends around to north to the Tarboche flagpole. The flagpole is replaced each year at the Saga Dawa festival. After passing the Lha-chu valley, we arrive in Chuku monastery where we can have a break. Another 3 hours' trek along the river, we hit our first day’s stop, the Dirapuk monastery.

Trek along Drolma Chu and reach the Jarok Donkhang (5,210m). A little while, Shiva-tsal (5,330m) comes in front. It is a rocky expanse dotted with stone cairns draped with items of clothing. Our next challenge is to get over Drolma La Pass (5,630m), the highest point of the entire kora, where you can look south for your last glimpse of the north face of Kailsh. After the ascent, we are experiencing a steep descent. Almost immediately, Gauri Kund Lake comes into view. Finally, after a long valley and river, we reach our second day’s stop, the Zutulpuk monastery.

The final day's walk begins with the easy stroll down to where the river emerges onto the plain. The valley narrows and the prayer flags flutter across the river. There is a rough road from here back to Darchen and it’s less than an hour's walk, passing many mani walls embellished with yak skulls. Finally, our kora end up at Darchen.

Cycle to Manasarovar. Lake Manasarovar is one of the holiest lakes in Tibet which cover 400km sq. It is devoted by billions of buddhists and hindus. The scenery there is stunningly beautiful with panoramic views of the Himalayas.

Another 52 kilometers leads you to a temporary military depot.

The initial trail is a period of down slope and then the path starts rising and even steep. There is a tea shop after 46 kilometers riding, and you can purchase some food and take a short rest. Pass a checkpoint, you will enter wide valley and grassland. Turn around two isolated hills, and you will reach today's destination - Xiangzhu. Lots of Tibetan tents scattered there, food and lodge are served there.

Riding on the carpet of green grass land, you will feel free from worry. There is a big bridge after 41 kilometers and lots of houses dotted on the way. Paryang will exhibit in front for you after 60 kilometers from Xiangzhu. It’s easy to find room and board in this large county.

17 kilometers even trail lies at first and then 7 kilometers up slope follows it until Shugela Pass (4780m). Due to the severe desertification, a great deal of dune blocks are on the way. The road becomes flat again after 40 kilometers. When you get to a fork in a road, turn left to New Zhongba. The second fork is in bituminous macadam. Several hundreds of meters later, the main road turns to be messy. The latter 10 kilometers becomes extremely terrible, which makes endless troubles on the way.

The route becomes more challenging out of Zhongba, and you need to ride on rising and falling trail. The mess-up laterite might sink your bike. The first disgusting trail will lead you to Lazang, and you will be more abhorrent to the latter part. The strenuous riding comes to an end until the appearance of some small villages. Cycle along a river valley and reach the deserted 32 highway keeper's house before a big bridge.

You can see some villages after a couple of kilometers. Continue to ride on the rising and falling path for 19 kilometers and arrive in Dajiling. You might stop to have a cup of tea. Climb up for a short trail, cross over a large bridge, and 3 kilometers more leads you to a Pass, and you can enjoy several kilometers of fantastic downgrading trail until Saga. There are banks and post office there for communications with the outside world.

The comfortable thing is that the former 14 kilometers path to Dajiajia Village is gentle and even. And this flat trail continues another 19 kilometers to Luma village. Climb up a slope to Kula Mountail Pass (5080m), and you can have a short excitement by gliding down the slope. However, the latter 40 kilometers route becomes evil and the gust from opposite direction will devastate your body until today's termini Qiere village.

After a 4-kilometer-gentle path, you are forced to shin on a hill for 7 kilometers to a Pass and follow the slime and slush downgrading trail. Go across plenty of streams and get out of the valley, you might see precious Tibetan antelopes in the natural reserve area if you are lucky. Meet a lake after 30 kilometers, you will welter a long period of terrible muddy trail together with numerous messy stones. There is a highway keeper's house about 64 kilometers later.

You will reach Sangsang village after a big turn around the swamp area. Sangsang is a large town full of jollification. You can relax yourself and enjoy some good food.

The trail is not as terrible as previous days although you need to get over three Passes for 65 kilometers and arrive in Kaika (Kaga) town.

You will cross over the convergence of National highway 318 from the original National highway 219. Head towards Lhatse past the hot springs and camp about 10km outside of town. Finally join into the "Friendship Highway". Nice asphalt road starts from here and there is only one high pass on the way to Lhasa left.

The route leads you through picturesque valleys after the long route over the Tso-La (4520m), past the isolated Gyachung Monastery and camp.

Get up early and head out on the highway towards Shigatse, Tibet's second largest city. Ride over two small passes and through several small Tibetan villages.

Upon arrival, visit Tashilhunpo Monastery where you can see the well preserved largest statue of Jampa (future god) in the world. The monastery itself is abiding place for the successive Penchen Lamas. You can enjoy a shower in your hotel.

Continue cycling to Gyantse. Although today is a long cycling day, the highway is tarred and flat.

In the afternoon arrive Gyantse, visit the Gyantse Dzong and Gyantse Kumbum. The Dzong is a fort dating from the 14th century and the Kumbum, a large gold-domed stupa with several small chapels, containing an impressive collection of Tibetan Buddhist murals.

It’s a significant day on the tour, as you have to get up early to climb the high Karo La Pass (5010m). You can see glaciers stretching down and beautiful lakes. In the afternoon arrive in the foot of the Karo La Pass (4750m), where your tented village will be prepared for the night.

Start on a gravel roadway through a ravine, then it become bituminous macadam. After descending we continue cycling along Friendship Hwy to reach Lake Yamdrok Tso, at the far side of which set camp (4490m). The dazzlingly turquoise green Yamdrok-Tso Lake is one of the three great holy lakes in Tibet.

Leave the beautiful lake behind, today you will overcome the last mountain pass of this trip. A strong uphill climb along a tar road of several switchbacks, reaches a summit lavishly adorned with prayer flags (4794m). After descending we continue ride along the Hwy to the foot of the Kamba La Pass (3700 m).

Today your long march comes to its final destination. The last riding day is very short and easy. The road in good condition is quite flat. You are rewarded for your effort with a night in a comfortable hotel in Lhasa, enjoy some delicious food in downtown, and of course, a shower in your hotel.

In morning, go to visit the famous Potala palace and explore the grandest of this myriad chapels, you will experience its audience halls, the jeweled and Golden burial chortens (stupa Tombs) of past Dalai Lamas, and tremendous number of Buddhist frescoes, thangkas, combinations of mandala, etc.

In the afternoon, pay a visit to the holist temple in Tibet, the Johkang Temple, built during Songtsen Gonpo's reign by princess Wencheng of Tang Dynasty, 647 A.D, and its famous Barkor Kora.

Notice: the sequence of sightseeing might be changed based on the reservation of Potala Palace.

Today, you will visit two important monasteries in Lhasa, the Drepung and the Sera.

Situated at the foothill of a mountain, Drepung monastery was founded by Jamyang Choeje in 1416. It was once home of 10000 monks and Ganden podrang in Drepung is famous for it was the government centre during the fifth dalai lama and later moved to the famous potala palace.

After having lunch, continue to visit the Sera Monastery, which was founded in 1419 by Tsongkapa's disciple Jamchen Choeje. The most attractive is its Buddhist Scriptures debating held in the courtyard mostly around 6:00 - 7:30 in the afternoon.

Free time at your disposal this morning, explore the bustling markets of the Barkhor to buy some souvenirs for your families and friends. After lunch, departure transfer to see off, tour services end and Tibet welcome you back forever.